![]() When doing so use the rubber sleeve that is inside the socket to help get the plug out of the well. Hints: Using a 6" extension on your socket remove all the old plugs first. You will see your plug waaaay down below. Next pull on the rubber grommet labeled #1 (NOT THE WIRE) and pull it all the way out. If I recall correctly you willīefore continuing mark each of the four cables with a number (1-4, left to right) so you don't get these mixed up. Plugs are under all that wiring in about 4" deep wells.įirst you will need to remove four bolts that hold the coils into If you lookĬlosely you'll see another rubber grommet under all the wiring. Running through them (these are the ignition coils). You'll see a round black rubber grommet and two black blocks with wires Word Mazda and behind that you'll see your engine size. Look right on top of the aluminum engine block and you will see the Looking for a standard 1/4" black wire that would normally run from aĭistributor cap to the plug you would be wrong. Here's where I found mine on my 2000 protege.įirst you're not looking for the right wire type! If you're Be sure to only complete one spark plug replacement at a time. Reattach the spark plug wire to the new spark plug.Ĭontinue this process with the other spark plugs. Specifications listed on the spark plug package. Slide the socket into theĬylinder well and gently turn the wrench to the right to thread the The socket with the threads sticking out. Spray silicone spray into the cylinder well and onto the new spark plug threads. Turn the socket wrench to unscrew and pull the spark Spark plug may require you to unhook the wire from the ignition coil toĮxtension and socket wrench attached into the cylinder well and on top Some models with ignition coils above the Wire around the circle and twist to unlock the wire. Wires connected to the spark plugs are the flat circular ends. Located across the top of the Eclipse model's engine. Maybe I provided to many details but maybe it could help any other beginner readers.Ĭool the engine before attempting to remove any spark plugs. It could avoid problem investigation by the end if something went wrong during the whole process. If you don't feel safe, you can try to start your engine after each of the replacement for few seconds to make sure you did well. Repeat the same process for each of the others. Make sure that the wire is right back in place pushing on it firmly with an kind of rotational motion If you have silicone grease apply some with a 'cuetip' in the boot of your wire before to put it back in place. When you feel that you are at the maximum of your strength using this way, then just give a LITTLE BIT of 'thighting' with one hand on the rachet head and the other on the rachet handle (lets say 10 degrees max) and that's it. Over the rachet head (not by the handle). To avoid to get it 'overthighted' I drive my rachet with one hand When you're sure that it is well engaged (lets say screwed half of the threads) you can go ahead with your rachet. Doing so, you'll have the feeling and will avoid to screw it cross-thread. Put in place new spark just using socket and rachet extension by hands. ![]() Take care to avoid that any dirty drop in the head hole once a spark plug is removed Going one by one will warming you up and will avoid wiring mixup (severe risk depending of the engine) Replace the spark plug one by one beginning by the most easy positionned. Take care to not go over and soil the electrodes Yes it's a good idea to put some 'antiseize' stuff on the spark plug threads. New spark plugs will be already gapped to the spec so take care to not knock the electrodes If NGK has an equivalent, GO FOR IT it's the best Follow the manufacturer recommendations about spark plugs specifications. These things being said, just for your info the right torque should be in between 11-17 pounds-feet (15-23 N.m) For your safety and part 'longevity' it could be mandatory. Do not conclude that I never use T wrench. Threads condition, temperature of the parts (cold, warm) will also influence right reading. maybe not for yours but for several types of engine, you will have to use ratchet extension, universal joint(s) to reache the spark plugs affecting the reading of your torque wrench. I prefer to feel by myself the right torquing. Maybe you will be surprised but I have never used torque having replaced thousand of spark plugs so far.
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